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	Mandelic Acid: Article

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The History

A few years before alpha-hydroxy acids were used, tretinoin (Retin-A) was making headlines with its ability to fade wrinkles and age spots, but there were many drawbacks. Persons on Retin-A experienced extreme irritation, redness, and dryness. Furthermore, because of increased sun sensitivity, users had to either stay out of the sun entirely, or wear a sunblock whenever they went outdoors.
With the introduction of alpha hydroxy acids, people who wanted the benefits of Retin-A, without the side effects turned to alpha hydroxy acids. However, because research of the acids was still in its elementary stage, cautions were not taken in the monitering of products that contained alpha hydroxy acids. With the increased demand of the AHA's, cosmetic companies were producing their own alpha hydroxy formulations as fast as they could. Problems began to arise when products that were unsafe began to burn, and sometimes even scar, the consumers.

What went wrong with these products? Apparently, many companies created creams with high concentrations of these acids-up to 50% or higher, or they would create mixtures of various alpha hydroxy acids, which would increase the acidity level. At these unsafe levels, alpha hydroxy acids can damage rather than help the skin. With continued research, experts determined that glycolic and lactic acids (two types of alpha hydroxy acids), were safe in cosmetic products as long as they're used in concentrations of no higher than 10%, and with a pH level of no less than 3.5 (to help counteract the acidity level).

What are Alpha Hydroxy Acids and how do they work?

Alpha-hydroxy acids are naturally occurring acids, derived from the sugars in particular plants. Some examples are Glycolic Acid (Sugar Cane), Lactic Acid (Milk), Tartaric Acid (Grapes), Citric Acid (Citrus Fruits), Malic Acid (Apples), and Mandelic Acid (Bitter Almonds). These acids were able to improve the skin because they had molecules small enough to penetrate the outer (horny) layer of the skin, and reach the lower (dermis) layer. Also, they work by dissolving the cement that holds dead skin cells together, increasing cell turnover, and sloughing off dull, rough skin on the surface.

Eventually, this results in softer, smoother skin, faded wrinkles, lightened age spots, and decreased blemishes. One alpha hydroxy acid, Mandelic acid, has been shown to be an particularly helpful acid. With its anti-bacterial properties, mandelic acid, is able to control mild to moderate acne. Above all, though, is the acid's ability to fade dermal melasma, a condition that is often resistant to topical treatments such as Retin-A or bleaching creams.

For more information on mandelic acid please visit the Nucelle® Skin Care website, the only skin care company with a patented formulation of the incredible AHA, mandelic Acid. Another added benefit of alpha hydroxy acids is the way they can improve the skin's ability to retain moisture. Most of the skin's moisture is lost through the cracks of the dead skin cells on the outer layer. By removing the dead skin, water can not be easily lost through the cracks. For more information on dry skin, please visit the Dry Skin web page.

What precautions should you take with Alpha Hydroxy Acids

The most important precaution you can take with alpha hydroxy acids is to know the percent and pH level of the product. Anything with an acid percentage of 10% should be prescribed or administered by a dermatologist. Also, the pH level should be no less than 3, and the more acid in a product, the higher the pH should be. All of Nucelle's skin care products have safe acid and pH levels, the amount depending on which product it is in. Even at lower levels, though, some alpha hydroxy acids can be irritating, depending on how sensitive your skin is. Mandelic acid is the recomended AHA for those with sensitive skin, since it is non-irritating. Also, darker skin types should avoid most alpha hydroxy acids, due to the risk of hyperpigmentation. The only alpha hydroxy acid that has been tested safely on darker skin types, such as asian, mediterenean, and black skins is mandelic acid.
Another situation you should avoid is buying any skin creams or cosmetics from unknown companies that offer a P.O. Box number, but not a street address. A P.O. box is a sign of a fly-by-night operation that can be based anywhere in the world and will be difficult, if not impossible to locate if you have trouble.

Despite popular belief, there has been no proof that alpha hydroxy acids increase sun sensitivity, but a sunblock of SPF 15 is recommended to help prevent further sun-related damage. In fact, research has suggested that alpha hydroxy acids actually improve the skin's barrier functions (its ability to keep out unwanted substances, such as dirt and pollutants).

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